Wave, tide, and coastal-surge models are fundamental for understanding and forecasting the ocean’s energy where it meets both the atmosphere and the shoreline. Third-generation spectral wave models—such as WaveWatch III and SWAN—simulate the generation, growth, and propagation of wind-driven waves from the open ocean to nearshore zones. Barotropic hydrodynamic models—like ADCIRC or global tidal solutions such as TPXO—resolve astronomical tides and their interaction with complex coastal bathymetry. When these systems are coupled with high-resolution atmospheric forcing and data-assimilation schemes, they can reproduce storm-driven sea-level rise (storm surge), quantify inundation risk, and guide coastal-management decisions. Rapid advances in computational power and real-time data streams now enable operational forecasts that are essential for navigation safety, port operations, marine-energy planning, and the mitigation of extreme coastal events.
- francisco.machin@ulpgc.es
